Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
